Wednesday, December 10, 2008

down to the devil


most unique and shocking tourist experience ive ever had. hardly touristy aside from the outfits worn into time stuck mining of now enemic silver mountain where miners eek away at any mineral they can find in unbelievable horrific work conditions. beginning was sort of novel.. after a few hours.... disbelief they still mine this way literally pick an axe away sometimes 20 hours a day.... reminded of brute work fishing but nothing like atmosphere....... average miner dies just 10 years after starting work because of all the toxin inhale...and many start in their teens. in these pictures spots are all dust particles

went in holes that got smaller and smaller..at times lay crawling to the work zones...
could taste the dust instantly
they call it working in hell and as such have devil shrines in the shafts they give gifts to for good luck....cigarettes, coca leaves, alcohol, candy, and at one a lambs fetus...ya good luck miners let tourist in cause we bring them soda and coca leaves


i think i got the black lung....
and last..what would a mine visit be without blowing up some dynomite
only way i got this explosive shot was clinch jerk from the blast

la paz to potesi

ride from la paz to potesi was a long one... left in morning got here around 8.
350 miles more or less take much longer than interstate back home.
felt good though as S.A. has been slow going.
first part was flat highlands alongside a range...off in the distance you could see another range that looked off the horizon separated from earth as there was a lake in between...very cool!
as in all mountain ranges i suppose the weather changed on a wim...went from cool overcast to cool sunny to rain...to hail on the ting ting helmet and knees (sucked) then sun into amazing redstone mineral rich mountain landscape to finish up. just as sun going down huge unearlthy looking canyon areas occasionally coming accross little villages that blended into the landscape....clearly dont have to go far for building materials.... clutch is still holding but im anxious about it and the slaeve needs to be replaced. simons bike acting up quite a bit too as the high altitude isnt agreeing with his carb/jets so it spits and sputters a fair amount..
City of Potesi... unexpected appreciated slice with rich colonial feel.... claimed highest "city" in the world at 4030 meters.
small cobblestone streets...vibrant atmosphere...
much of architecture still in/from original 16th century state.
before coming Potesi knew nothing of the place...found out it was the richest silver mining mountain in the world and the spanish found it mid-1500's....for two hundred years this was the funding for their conquering and allowing them to be biggest world empire at the time... found mountain by incan who told them about it....described in story...coming up the canyon to see sunshining on a solo unmolested sparkling giant silver mound. FUNDED THE ENTIRE SPANISH EMPIRE FOR 200 YEARS! thinking about history had the incan not told....

Sunday, December 7, 2008

a new country with no gas

copocabana is a nice little tourist town tucked in a bay on lake titicaca...not at all what i would call typical of bolivia... feels more like old tacky california tourist town.....nice and relaxing. great little stone hotel overlooking the water.

rode to other side of the lake... crossed on a shouldnt be floatable boat.....battle to keep the bike upright. after getting to the other side my reserve gas light came on...1st town gas station.."no hay".... next 4 villages that look and feel more or less abonded, no windows, unfinished constrtuction, everything same color, bleak, kids all over road holding hands out for money.....its true about bolivia finacial state..... same story, no gas at stations. get to 36 miles on reserve, think it goes to 40....finally see a group of motorcyle police on side of road so pull over. sabes donde gasolina? si, aqui. (then told the lady to charge us $20..initial impression not the friendliest cops) the tiny store they were in front of sold it in jugs out the side....thats if you call it gas....pure white color like no gas ive seen but no choice...ok...thankfully i have some octane booster and it ran but sluggish. rolled into la paz...literally as dan ran out of gas at the top of town...thanks for the andes, he coasted a few miles on the highway (even passing a bus) and rolled right into a station.... with gas! la paz, highest capital city in the world, spectacular initial view...man and mountains....once in the middle little different story. strange feelings here and not a smile in sight. country has been on verge of civil war for quite sometime now.... im sure that takes its toll. after a day though the city kind of shines in its own right and has a raw-real feel happy to get new camera.... heading south tommorrow.....gas permitting