strange feelings in san pedro de atacama

San pedro de Atacama is a unique little oasis town.
One story-adobe-dusty-walking streets-tourists-hippies-adventure seekers-artists-boiling hot-relatively expensive-hotels and bars- stop point for the altiplano area. old and new-funky architecture inside- flat colorless outside buildings that make it look like any other dessert town though its not at all but youd never know until you go behind the walls..
first sign of christmas but holiday feel not in me


It’s the first town in Chile from remote Bolivia entrance and very welcomed after the past 5 days out.
Hot shower, comfortable bed, internet, beer and good food.
Only problem is there is no money in this town…literally. there are only 2 atm machines…one is for mastercard only (none of us have a mastercard) and the one visa machine hasn’t had any money in it since we got here 3 days ago…..on top of….none of us have any cash. Thankfully plenty of restaurants take visa but cant move until the machine gets filled because need cash for gas and cant travel without cash…most places arent tourist filled accepting credit cards.

cleaned out the fork seals and wrapped makeshift sleeves with the sleves of my t-shirt

Stuck here drinking beer in the shade….pretty content for the moment although lots of strange feelings going on…..dawning on me that Ive been living this dream as reality for the last few months but its gonna come to an end sooner than later….then what? put the beer down spacehead, youre drunk

favorite part of travel is that everything is new everyday....big or small… kind of a youth sponge addictive feeling that cant be gotten in one place…so….what?… back to easily taken advantage of comfortable living in minn, really enjoy my business and daily but pretty predictable. move back to iowa where all my family is? Maybe move somewhere in Rockies, always loved mountains (trip has reminded that) especially skiing in winter… and beauty of my business is I can do it anywhere. Alaska? still look as some of my favorite years but probably changed or I would be there now. Keep going?…maybe ship the bike to South Africa and ride that continent north?(no too dangerous solo)….New Zealand/Australia then work up to, have always wanted to see, The East and across? Ride back up thru brazil...that doesnt sound too bad? Of course have settle down thought in back of mind too…..who knows? I do know though that im ready to get back on the bike……guarantee to get these self absorbed thoughts out and just enjoy this time right now.

day 5 and into chile

Day 5
Starts out with dropping the bike when crossing rocks to get back on road…..aaahh!
Instant frustration lasts thru day….more sand. Come to a red valley that lifted spirit’s because of beauty…still sand though….paths start to get a little better…gravelish. Ride up to lago verde (green lake) with huge volcano behind it….very cool…but to cold to enjoy…get some gas from a tourist expedition truck. Keep going at other side of lake pull over to park like building, talk to an attendant who tells us only 5 miles to border and into chile!
YES!!!! Press on were almost there. Ride up mountain sand road and there it is….border immigrration building in the middle of nowhere…..finally made it. Get stamped out and ride into chile…the second you cross road turns from gravel sand to hard paved red dirt….F Ya!
Then few miles and its regular solid pavement going down the mountain range 25 miles about 14000ft into the desert, feels like you can actually see the roundness of the earth. Turned off engine and coasted the whole way down to take it in silent as reflect on absolute didn’t know these road conditions existed, riding ever. Thinking how Bolivia make Alaska roads like a babies butt…Morocco a cream puff. and how easy it is to coast at 60mph..temperature rising until reaching hot desert floor. stamp into chile at immigration…two bus loads of tourists there… strange feeling being back in civilization from where I just came and sorry for those around smelling me.

was ultimately rwarding knowing very few...maybe 10 bikes a year do this crossing and having made it thru with little damage

crash totals

me--5

dan--7

simon--6

martina and didi--0 ( and they were two up)

as the crow flies the ground covered was only about 400

miles that took 5 days 9hours a day excluding breaks etc...break that down and you got about 10mph avg.

day 4 &5 bolivia offroad expedition

day 3
Wake up to warm sun but not feeling it…
This is the last chance to hit a decent size gravel road and get out if want….I did want to…not all geared for camping….fork seals out, clutch whimsical….bike overheating….borrowning plates and tent and cups
Sand riding is challenging but not fun nor rewarding on a loaded up to around 850lb including me and hardly taking in any scenery as the only thing I am looking at is 20ft of ground in front of bike….my better judgement was saying f it and get into chile…but I didn’t. Ride….start on that decent gravel road going the opposite direction….easy…..then between mountains…on rock…big rock roads….like this with ktm because of suspension and power….you just hammer it and go trying to find the best path and not blow a tire as youre bumping over huge rocks….challenging and unlike sand rewarding because part of the success is based choice of path…plus it reminds me of offroad riding Ive done on dirt bike. Get into some sand before reaching first lake…..tiny really half salt half lake but beautiful surroundings and pink white flamingos living 11000+ feet up Lunch then ride on….to the hardest riding Ive done on any vehicle…..pure sand….thick deep and unforgiving…..slow with feet down weeble wobbling or faster hoping to ride straight and over without catching edge….both….then fast and I bit it pretty hard but not hurt…busted side case and lost sleeping pad to the 30mph wind…..frustrating vent. F^*%$# this…why not listen to myself and go when had the chance.. FFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF! Sand got even harder deeper more vast and flat out ridiculous…did not imagine this kind of riding on the trip…..absolutely want for a smaller lighter bike in this shit….beyond my skill on a 950cc bike.
Endless insane sand….ruts often worse than making own path because of 5 inch washboard…average speed around 13mph, overheating, gotta just go…sand forever,,,…. Squeezing tank with knees for better balance but too slow and deep to stand…arms and hands starting to jellify….get to little rock area aside sand and set up camp….picture perfect motorcycle camp site. camp animals
Sand unbelievable challenging….still not fun or rewarding but it does make the tuna spaghetti taste better. Cold, off to bed…not looking forward to tommorrow ride….don’t think anyone is….but they may be feeling reward. Did not see a single person or 4X4 all day.
We’ll see what tomorrow brings.

Day 4 .....

what tommorrow brought was more misery!

paased thru a tourist camp with loads of llamasHardest day of them all.. Nothing but sand everywhere..tired…beat down..frustrated…passing thru some of the most amazing/ bizarre landscape but I cant appreciate it because this riding flat out sucks and my mood is horrible…nothing to do but keep going til dark stopping now and then to take photo and rest. smoking volcanoe Way into the mountains reaching the highest ive been on the bike at around 16,000ft. Volcanoes everywhere and eventually ride up on an erupted one with geysers and moon like surface…very cool, but still not appreciating…just want out….clutch goes out, have to fix fluid in 30mph wind….more sand after volcano and I crashed again..this time no one around…miraculously was able to pick the bike up alone probably extra strength out of pure anger…. Ride on hating it…road starts getting a tiny better into loose gravel as approach a few more flamingo lakes…finish ride going straight west into the sun completely blinded riding one handed against the wind on washboard sand with the mindset of I just don’t care anymore…..cannot see anything and going suedo fast…..suddenly as I am passing him, right next to me is dan…couldn’t see til right there…..after another 20 minutes…same thing….cant see a thing then didi and martina on side of road standing….jam brakes to a halt…we are camping onthe mountain here, 20 minutes til sun goes down. Found some ruin stone walls used for animals that block the wind so we set up….freezing cold…the temp everyday gets colder and colder as we’re going up to higher elevation….at night reaching 10 below. Eat some spagetti as fast as possible and get into tent.(share simons squeezed). Know that we will get out tomorrow so some relief….as simon put it when all standing around kettle “at least we’re not dead” who said animals dont communicate